Thursday, September 19, 2013

Leaving Fairbanks, September 14, 2013

On a final walk around the Chena River State Park I found some mushrooms growing (we have had some light rains while here)

20130912_162559-Mushrooms  and the fireweeds has bloomed out and snowed20130912_162635-Snowed out fireweed

On one of our visits to the Visitor’s Center we learned about a group here (Cold Climate House Research Center) that held seminars once a month on Thurs.  Since it was being held this week we decided to attend.  The leader shared some very interesting studies (facts) about building in remote areas of AK where all building material and labor had to be flown in. Also the way they insulated both with foam and natural (earth) to cut heating material and cost.  As we walked through the exhibits we came across items that had been removed from a north slope homestead including tools, a homemade sled and canoe.

20130912_151804-Homebuilt canoe and sled

Driving out the Richardson Highway we stopped along the Tanana Valley.

20130914_131514-Gold Rush sign along Tanana Valley

There was a roadhouse located here at the site of the Silver  Fox Farm.

20130914_131848-Site of 1910 Fox Farm and roadhouse

The birch and alders added a lot of gold color for the fall

20130914_132447-Fall colors along Richardson Hwy. 

and the road followed the Tanana River.

20130914_135432=Tanana River

Arrived at Quartz Lake State Park in the late afternoon.  The clouds reflect the setting sun.

20130914_200125-Quartz Lake evening storm clouds

The next morning we headed out for a road trip including a stop at Rika’s Roadhouse after crossing the Tanana River

20130915_124911-Bridge over Tanana River and pipeline crossing-built in 1940

We were disappointed to learn that  while the State Park was open Rika’s was closed (in fact we were told at the visitor’s center at Delta Junction that the restaurant and gift shop may be closed permanently due to loss of tour bus business).

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Rika’s Roadhouse

                                           20130915_131236-Rika's roadhouse

Prior to the upgrading of the Richardson/Valdez trail and the building of the bridge there was a ferry crossing the Tanana River.

The ferry manager’s house was built in 1923.

20130915_131335-Ferry Manager's house -buildt 1929

When the Alaska Hwy. was built during WWII it stopped at Delta Junction where it connected with the Richardson

20130916_135424-Delta Junction end of AK Hwy

Even though Fairbanks still claims the Alaska Hwy. ends there.

Also in this area is the Sullivan Roadhouse which was  moved from the bombing practice field by the military.  This was the second move for this structure since the Sullivan’s moved it the first time when the Tok Cutoff was rerouted about 4.5 miles from the roadhouse to eliminate some of the  steep grades on the highway.

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The kitchen and dining area were located in the roadhouse.

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However the sleeping quarters one room for men and one for women separated by curtains was in a building in back.

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After we returned we enjoyed a beautiful sunset.

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We have not seen a lot of large animals but did enjoy the swans at Quartz Lake.

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The 800 miles of pipeline  cover lots of different terrain.  It crosses many rivers the Yukon being the largest (1900 ft) but here it crosses the Tanana

20130915_131426-Pipeline crossing the Tanana River

It travels above and below ground.

20130917_151854-Buried pipeline The heat exchangers keep the permafrost from being disturbed.

The pipeline is designed to withstand maximum 8.5 Richter scale earthquake.  It has withstood a magnitude 7.9 earthquake centered in the Denali Fault in Interior Alaska.

On the morning of Sept. 18 we woke to snow

20130918_100336 20130918_073123 so we decided to move on East to Tok.

Upon arrival we learned that the Visitor’s center closed last Sunday but decided to visit one of the few “gift shops” we like in the area.  There are a number of interesting exhibits in the shop like the mountain sheep and wolves

20130918_134317 and the bear scene

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Some of the interesting decorations are the post with burls

20130918_135416Have been told burls are growths caused by insect attacks under the bark of trees.

Moose antler chandler

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They have all size burl bowls for sale

20130918_141246 as well as some huge ones like this one nearly 2 feet in diameter.

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Of course the prices are also large.

Friday, September 13, 2013

FAIRBANKS – Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitors Center

Arrived in Fairbanks Sept. 5 and settled in at the Chena River State Park campground. Decided our first stop should be the new visitors center opened after our last visit.  As well as having very knowledgeable staff there are very nice exhibits. 

As we approached we saw an early log house which was part of a row of houses (most now gone) which still sets in the original location.

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However, many people lived in wall tents with wood heaters

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Early clothing

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With all the labors of women they still loved sewing and decorating with beads

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Since the natives moved so often a sewing kit most be portable.

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The moving was to locate animals for food and fishing

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Athabascan Potlatches were held for celebrating life transitions, new chief, first hunt, first “kill” of the season and to celebrate the life of  the deceased.  Family and friends came together to share food and gifts

20130905_155648  Potlatches are still held today.

Their art was rooted in culture

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Leaving the center we spotted an Arch of Antlers

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Fairbanks – Museum of the North

The museum located on the University of Alaska, Fairbanks campus, is one of our favorites.  In early 2000 it was renovated and new areas for displays were opened.  The exterior is very modern looking

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as well as the lobby.

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Otto, the 9 ft. grizzly, still stands guard on some of the displays

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including the other animals

20130907_103644 polar bear and seals

20130907_104055 muskox and wolves

20130907_104152 reindeer skeleton

20130907_113926 Blue babe,steppe bison

20130907_123729 dall sheep

20130907_124642 bear and eagle

IMG_0512 ptarmagin (one dresses for summer and one winter)

There are many exhibits depicting early native life, including dance mask, gloves and drum

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and dance stick

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Beautiful native clothing

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beaded color

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mask

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totum pole

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approx. 3000 pounds of jade

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more mask and sunglasses to protect from the sun and glare off the snow

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A carved Yup’ik angel

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many native dolls and toys

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Some outhouses are beautifully decorated and there are even outhouse races in some cities

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The natives do not waste any part of the fish or animals they kill.

This is a basket made from fish skin

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On the grounds we saw a block house that had been moved here and restored.  The gun slits are visible on all sides.

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We were not able to see the northern lights while in Fairbanks but did see several excellent movies explaining what occurs all the time but not always visible to us.

We had been advised to allow at least four hours.  However after this time we went out to lunch and returned for several more hours.  The three films shown take over one and a half hours to view.